Zanzibar, a popular travel destination, seems to be a place of contrasts. Probably, you’ve seen those travel brochures with turquoise waters and five-star luxury. However, real island life seems very different. It’s more about the grind, slow-moving officials, and a “Hakuna Matata” lifestyle that tests even the most patient traveler. Read on for more about a different perspective.
A Southern African Resident Goes North
Recently, we spoke with a traveler who goes by the name of John. He’d recently returned from an 8-day trip. Notably, although well-traveled, it was his first time experiencing a destination north of the Zambezi. What really goes on behind the postcards? Well, he laid it out a bit differently from those idyllic social media posts.
One of his first impressions was that Unguja island seemed to be one vast city with no limits. Transferring from the airport seemed to take forever. But interestingly, he couldn’t help but notice that everyone seemed to have electricity. And that’s not always true for Africa.
Where does it come from? Well, if you don’t know, there’s an undersea cable that runs from the Tanzanian mainland across the ocean floor. And somewhere down there, a much older cable from the 1980s still exists which helps with power.
A Place Of Contrasts
Probably, you’ve seen something on social media about the cultural must-do experience Stone Town. However, John found that stepping away from the beach in Zanzibar reveals a complex situation. For starters, it seems that in comparison to, say, South Africa, the place seems higgledy-piggledy when it comes to structural zoning.
And another immediate impression suggested that poverty seems widespread. Currently living in Zimbabwe, he noted, “Mbare high-desnisty suburb in Harare, Zimbabwe seems like a luxury haven,” in comparison.
Notably, the structural decay in Stone Town seems a bit of a shock. And he didn’t hanker for more of it. But there’s a reason why it might strike folks as decayed. That’s because it is. Many ancient coral-stone buildings crumble in narrow, claustrophobic alleys. Of course, the living aesthetic looks good in photos, but infrastructure for residents often lags far behind.
Beyond The Beach Bars
Many travelers to Zanzibar don’t see much more beyond the beaches, possibly a guided tour to Stone Town, or swimming pools with a view. However, John, comfortable with Africa, took private trips, and that revealed something he wasn’t expecting.
In the “green heart” of the island, John discovered rice farms in fertile valleys. Not many tourists venture out there, but the paddies seem important for food security. Still, they are an example of a difficult life; farmers rely entirely on the seasonal rains. Plus, most of the work is done by hand. While that’s not unusual in Africa, it’s another example of hard work for low return.
The Menus and Local Cuisine
At the various hotels, John felt a bit surprised by the selection of food at breakfast. While the fruit was amazing, and the pastries something to die for, other options included “cold meats, cereals, and cheese.” Africans further south on the continent would probably prefer a hearty meal with sauges, mince, fried tomatoes, eggs, and all the trimmings of a hearty British breakfast.
However, it also seemed apparent to John that many visitors at the resorts seemed to come from Europe. For the hotels, it makes sense to cater to the overseas market. So, for other gastronomic delights, you’d probably want to hire a small taxi to experience something else. Still, they enjoyed the mandazi spiced doughnuts and ginger tea.
Marine Life Activities
Of course, no trip to Zanzibar is considered complete without feeding the turtles and seeing the dolphins. So, John went on both outings. However, one thing he found disconcerting was the apparent lack of control when it came to boats and visitor numbers with the dolphins. Bear in mind, further south, conservation and animal safety seem paramount. He explained that he felt the “dolphins were stressed.”
Actually, he’s not alone in that impression. Serengeti African Tours recommends ways where folks can experience tours without 30 or 40 boats jostling for camera shots. Plus, they don’t endorse dolphin trips that encourage folks getting in and swimming with marine mammals.
The Zimbabwe vs. Zanzibar Contrast
In Zimbabwe, conservation seems more of a “low volume, high value” model. That often involves fewer people, higher prices, and strict ethical codes. But John felt that in Zanzibar, the place still has a “mass tourism matters” approach.
Naturally, the scarcity of work makes those with access to boats turn to marine trips for an income. However, without formal training in marine biology or animal ethics, they see a successful tour as one where the tourist gets closest.
However, there’s some good news, because NGOs step in to try and educate on Regenerative Tourism. Under new “Watch & Swim” guidelines, hopefully, fewer boats will crowd the animals.
The Time Means Nothing Factor
At the airport and immigration, the “Hakuna Matata” slogan is taken literally. Time seems to stand still. For those used to efficiency, the “slowly, slowly” approach on entry can be fraying. Don’t be surprised if you’re asked to buy local travel insurance even if you already have a good package from back home.
If you think about peak travel, John advises that you rethink it. For example, the idea of an overcrowded Christmas isn’t appealing to everyone, especially those with small kids. While some high-end hotels offer activities for kids, not all resorts place a high priority on entertaining little ones.
Have you ever been to Zanzibar? Did you get out and about and away from the secure safety of luxury resorts? Was it a bit of a culture shock for you? Let us know in the comments below, and remember to come back here often for all your travel news and updates.